After one week of relaxation and discovery in Botswana, we enter Zimbabwe our minds at ease, a little innocent and without apprehension of the problems that the country is going through. We knew the country in political crisis since the regime of Mugabe, but we did not expect to see their damages during such a short stay (3 days) and above all in a touristic area (Victoria Falls).
We were told that evrything was to be bought in US $, and that in no case we should use the local ATM's or exchange offices. The country has been indeed in financial crisis for more than 10 years, when Mugabe started to make some catastrophic financial decisions (all related to his ove power). In 1980, 1 US $ was worth 1.50 ZW $. In 2006, it was worth 400 000 ZW $. At the time of our passage, it was worth 70 000 ZW $. And all this just when the government had removed 3 zeros of its banknotes… In short, the local currency is not worth anything at all, and this is why it is very difficult with for the populatio to import. Adding to this problem the economic crisis of the country which almost does not export any more (in particular following the decision of Mugabe to drive out all the farmers), the situation became catastrophic: the country does not produce enough to nourish its population, and is thus dependent on imports which it cannot afford because of the almost null value of its local currency. Result: all the stores are empty or closed, people beg, the craftsmen trade against nothing and everything, and any item is sold very very expensive…
The meals not being included during our stay in Zimbabwe, with Delphine we went to the only supermarket in the village: we discoverd amazed that half of the racks were empty (whereas the SPAR shops are the most luxurious supermarkets of Africa). Cereals packs at 8 US $ each, and no milk available to go with it. Butchery: closed. Pastas: there aren't any… We decide to leave the shop with our trolley empty. We passe in front of a shoe store BATA: all empty except the shelves and the still opened till at the counter. Despaired, we enter a local fast food (strangely empty), and I ask information about the price of a small portion of chips. The salesman does not know! He disappears at the back of the shop and returns 5 minutes later. 300 000 ZW$, or just about 4 US $, or one third of the monthly average wage of the population. We finally decide with Delphine to be on diet for the week end!
In the street we refuse to give away money to the beggars who follow us all the time. We on the other hand like to trade with the local craftsmen who are all very gifted in wood carving. In total, we 'spent' 4 tee-shirt, 1 tie, 1 cap, 1 lighter, 1 tube of used sun lotion, 1 broken alarm clock, and 2 packs of dry beans bought in Botswana!
It is to be noted that despite of their distress, the Zimbabweans are often smiling and in good mood. They like to chat and laugh with us, and do not complain unceasingly about their living conditions. Once again we learn how to relativize on our daily minor problems!
Bathed in this odd atmosphere, we become more aware of money and its value. We spend the least and eat almost nothing! It is thus a little against us that we decide (all the same!) to pay 40 US $ to visit one of the 7 wonders of the world: the Victoria falls, located 500 meters away from our camp
Inside the park the view is rather impressive. The main fall allows tons of water every second and on top of making a great hubbub, it rejects a large cloud of vapour. We feel like in a hammam!
Advice for the travellers: rather envisage your visit of the falls outside the dry season, the show will be even more impressive. At the time of our passage, the falls were only at 20% of their maximum capacity…
